Totems?

Here's another view of the Legislature with Queen Victoria's statue. This statue is on such a high plinth that you can't see it well from up close. This was shot with a telephoto lens from across the street. The statues Euro-Canadians erect are perhaps a little analogous to First Nations totem poles. In the background we have another totemic figure on top of the Legislature - Captain Vancouver.

Totems

Yesterday's totem stands peacefully among tall trees. Today's totem is in the heart of the city, directly opposite the Legislative Assembly Buildings.

A Closer Look 4

Earlier this week I posted photos of Sir James Douglas and Sir Matthew Baillie Begbie, whose niches flank the main entrance to the Legislative Assembly Buildings. However, the highest place of honour, the topmost peak of the central dome is occupied by a gold covered statue of Captain George Vancouver. As well as being an early explorer and surveyor of this coast he settled the Nootka Sound crisis which established British control over this area. These photos were taken with a 500mm super-telephoto lens. I prefer the profile photo to the right except that it seems to draw attention to the Captain's rather outstanding...er...nose.

A Closer Look II

Continuing the series of photos looking at some of the details of the BC Provincial Legislative Assembly Buildings, above is another view of the portico of the Legislative Library at the rear of Legislature. And below are two more of the historical figures who stand in elevated niches on various corners of the building.

To the left is Chief Maquinna, identified on the plaque as "The Nootka Chief who welcomed the first white man landing on Vancouver Island in 1778." The First Nations people now occupying this area (Nootka Sound) are now more properly called the Nuu-chah-nulth. The white man in question was Captain James Cook although there is some doubt as to whether Cook and Maquinna actually met. Maquinna was later a central figure in events that are known as the Nootka Crisis when England and Spain went head to head in this area and Captain George Vancouver and Juan Francisco de la Bodega y Quadra sat down to sort it out. Captain Vancouver's statue now adorns the very top of the Legislative Assembly. A bust of Quadra can be seen in Quadra Park on Belleville Street, overlooking the Victoria's Inner Harbour.

To the right is Sir Francis Drake. According to the plaque, "British Activity in North Pacific began with his voyage in 1579." Drake is probably better known for his circumnavigation of the globe - only the second time this had been done - and for his many other naval exploits and conquests. Drake is not perhaps quite so politically correct these days since among his many activities he was a pioneer in the slave trade. It is only fair to note though that Chief Maquinna was also a slave owner.

Dawn

Taken just at sunrise last week, Captain Vancouver atop the green dome of the Legislative Assembly Buildings catches the first rays of the morning sun while the Port Angeles ferry, the MV Coho, awaits her morning departure.

Captain George Vancouver

We've looked at Captains Cook and Quadra and here is a third but possibly the most important early sailor to visit these shores, Captain George Vancouver. In addition to this island where I write, the metropolis across the Strait of Juan de Fuca has been named after him, probably because he was the first ever to sail into Burrard Inlet, on which shores the City of Vancouver has grown.

Captain Vancouver had an interesting career as a British naval officer. His first naval experiences were with Captain Cook, who explored this area on two voyages between 1772 and 1779. Next Vancouver served in a 74 gun ship of the line in a war with France. These were the glory days of the British Navy when their naval superiority spread the British Empire over the globe. After stints in the West Indies and South Pacific, Vancouver returned to this area on an expedition that lasted from 1791 to 1795, charting the BC coastline with such accuracy that his charts were still in use in the early 20th century. Wisely he spent his winters during this extended voyage in the Sandwich Islands (Hawaii) but presumably with better diplomacy than Captain Cook, who managed to get himself fatally speared while visiting those generally hospitable islands.

Captain Vancouver was accompanied on this last lengthy voyage by Archibald Menzies, a surgeon and naturalist. Those of you familiar with the works of Patrick O'Brian and his Aubrey/Maturin series of nautical novels will find many interesting parallels with the voyages and work of Vancouver and Menzies and those of O'Brian's main characters. These characters were brought to life on the big screen a few years ago under the title, "Master and Commander: The Far Side of the World," with Russell Crowe. Menzies gave his name to one of the West Coast's most beautiful trees, the Arbutus or Pacific Madrone (Arbutus menziesii).

Unlike O'Brian's literary captain and surgeon/naturalist, however, Vancouver and Menzies did not get along and when the voyage was completed Menzies' and others' complaints effectively ended Vancouver's career. He died in obscurity at the age of 40 only a few years after completing his circumnavigation of the globe. His statue, pictured above, is in need of a little maintenance but its location makes that difficult. It is, as can be seen below, on the top of the tallest dome of the British Columbia Legislative Assembly buildings here in Victoria, a fitting, if belated, honour.The magnificent figurehead above, apparently gazing at Vancouver's stature, is that of the Pacific Swift, one of the Tall Ships that is resident here when it is not away on a voyage. Below is an additional shot of this beautiful wood sculpture. Notice the BC floral emblem of the dogwood flowers.